Crate training takes some time and effort, but it is a proven way to help train dogs who act inappropriately without knowing any better. If you have a new dog or puppy, youcan use the crate to limit his access to the house until he learns all the house rules—like what he can and can’t chew on and where he can and can’t eliminate. A crate is also a safe way of transporting your dog in the car or taking him places where he may not be welcome to run freely. If you properly train your dog to use the crate, he’ll think of it as his safe place and will be happy to spend time there when needed.
Selecting a Crate
Crates may be plastic (often called “flight kennels”) or collapsible, metal pens. They come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores. Your dog’s crate should be just large enough for him to stand up and turn around in. If your dog is still growing, choose a crate that will accommodate his adult size. Block off the excess crate space so your dog can’t eliminate at one end and retreat to the other.
The Crate Training Process
Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog’s age, temperament, and past experiences. It’s important to keep two things in mind while crate training: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant, and training should take place in a series of small steps. Don’t go too fast.
Step 1: Introducing Your Dog to the Crate
Place the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate. Bring your dog over to the crate and talk to him in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won’t hit your dog and frighten him.
To encourage your dog to enter the crate, drop some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that’s okay; don’t force him to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn’t interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.
Step 2: Feeding Your Dog His Meals in the Crate
After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him his regular meals near it. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If your dog remains reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat his meal, you can close the door while he’s eating. The first time you do this, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he’s staying in the crate for 10 minutes or so after eating. If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, it’s imperative that you not let him out until he stops.
Otherwise, he’ll learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so he’ll keep doing it.
Step 3: Conditioning Your Dog to the Crate for Longer Time Periods
After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods while you’re home. Call him over to the crate and give him a treat. Give him a command to enter, such as “kennel.” Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the treat, and close the door.
Sit quietly near the crate for five to 10 minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, then let him out of the crate. Repeat this process several times a day. With each repetition, gradually increase the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you’re out of his sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you out of sight the majority of the time, you can begin leaving him crated when you’re gone for short time periods or letting him sleep there at night. This may take several days or several weeks.
Step 4, Part A: Crating Your Dog When Left Alone
After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put him in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate. You’ll want to vary at what point in your “getting ready to leave” routine you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn’t be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Don’t make your departures emotional and prolonged but matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for entering the crate, and then leave quietly. When you return home, don’t reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low-key to avoid increasing his anxiety. Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time to time when you’re home so he doesn’t associate crating with being left alone.
Step 4, Part B: Crating Your Dog at Night
Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you’ll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside. Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so that they don’t associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet.
Potential Problems Too Much Time in the Crate
A crate isn’t a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated. For example, if your dog is crated all day while you’re at work and then crated again all night, he’s spending too much time in too small a space. Other arrangements should be made to meet his physical and emotional needs. Also remember that puppies under six months of age shouldn’t stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can’t control their bladders and bowels for longer periods.
If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to determine whether he’s whining to be let out of the crate or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you’ve followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn’t been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate. If that is the case, try to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he’ll probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse. If the whining continues after you’ve ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not playtime. If you’re convinced that your dog doesn’t need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don’t give in; if you do, you’ll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you’ve progressed gradually through the training steps and haven’t done too much too fast, you’ll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.
Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won’t solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counterconditioning and desensitization
procedures. You may want to consult a professional animalbehavior specialist.
Adair Springs Collies
The more you do with your puppy the first 16 weeks of life
The better companion you will have.
Collies are extremely intelligent and very intuitive. Collies tend to learn so quickly, that once they have learned a command, they tend to get bored if asked to repeat a command over and over during training sessions.
The collie that spends time with you will quickly pick up on what’s expected. The poor collie that is left outside alone will not develop the same happy characteristics as the one that spends time with you. Staying outdoors is not bad. I recommend that when you are home, you spend time with your dog as much as possible.
Never allow your puppy to do anything you wouldn’t tolerate from an adult dog!
Make this training part of your everyday life and when he’s six
months old he will be a behaved companion.
If you don’t want him on the furniture when he’s big, don’t allow
it when he’s small.
If you don’t want him to jump on you as an adult, don’tallow it
now. Simply push him back so he’s on the ground again and
again until he stays. He will get the message even though you
Begin to teach your puppy to sit as soon as you get home.
I encourage you to take a puppy training class.
It's a great way to bond with your collie and learn how a dog thinks.
"Nothing In Life is Free"
Grooming Your Collie
Grooming your collie takes little time. Begin brushing your collie as soon as you get home. This will get him used to you handling him and he’ll learn that every minute is not playtime. Be sure to pay attention to the armpits, hair on the rear of all four legs, the belly area and behind the ears, and the underside of the tail.
A small amount of time brushing will help to not let things get out of hand. But remember, even the worst mats can be removed without shaving. Please try not to shave your collie. The collie coat is specially designed to keep him cool in the summer and warm in the winter. The same elements that keep him warm, also keep him cool.
Crate or Area Training
I recommend starting immediately, especially when you are gone from the house, or whenever you are not able to be 'with' your dog. If you can't watch him, put him up. If I am not actually playing with my puppies, or able to closely watch them, I put them up so they do not get into a habit of 'accidents'. The fewer accidents the faster the learning.
DO NOT PUSH YOUR PUPPY'S NOSE INTO ANY 'ACCIDENT'! IT DOESN'T WORK!
Just tell him "NO" - and only IF you catch him in the act. Take him outdoors to his 'spot', hope he goes out there, praise him lavishly if he does, and let it go at that - or put him in his crate.
Most of the work is at the beginning, a lot of work at first, but not much at all as time goes by. After few months you will have a well trained dog. He will do his best not to soil his crate, which he considers his bed. You will be much further along in the training of your puppy if you begin housebreaking with a crate right at the beginning. Set up a routine, or time schedule that works for your lifestyle, stick to it, and you will have a well-trained and housebroken pet before you know it.
PROBABLY THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF CRATE TRAINING IS SETTING A ROUTINE AND MAKING YOURSELF STICK TO IT.
ONCE THE PUPPY OR OLDER DOG CAN COUNT ON YOU BEING THERE AT A CERTAIN TIME, THEY WILL FOLLOW THROUGH AND STICK TO THE ROUTINE -
AS SOON AS THEY ARE PHYSICALLY ABLE.
Be patient & consistent, and it will work.
Reasons for having trouble:
•Sticking to a schedule
•Stress Dogs LIKE structure, and count on it from us - their entire lives are based on what we do. If your dog knows we will be there to let him out at certain times (or close to that time), he will wait for us, because he knows we will be there for him. Stress may be visitors, other animals, new home, etc.
CRITICAL PERIODS IN A DOG'S LIFE --DEVELOPMENTAL STAGES
0 to 7 Weeks Neonatal, Transition, Awareness, and Canine Socialization
Puppy is with mother and littermates. During this period, puppy learns about social interaction, play, and inhibiting aggression* from mother and littermates. (*Note: Some lines of dogs don't begin to get incisors until about 7 weeks, so this time period may last two additional weeks in those dogs--one can't learn to inhibit his bite if he has no teeth.) Puppy learns to use species specific behaviors that make him a dog. Practices body postures, facial expressions, and vocalizations and learns their effects on siblings. Plays chase games to learn coordination and timing, greeting behaviors to learn body postures and fight games teach him use of his body. Learns to accept discipline during this time from his mother. Learns bite inhibitions and weaning. Mother dogs set up the puppies for these lessons. (Very important to let mother dog stay with pups to teach these lessons.) Puppies must stay with their mother and littermates during this critical period. Puppies learn the most important lesson in their lives - they learn to accept discipline.
7 to 12 Weeks Human Socialization Period
The puppy now has the brain waves of an adult dog, but his attention span is short. This period is when the most rapid learning occurs. Learning at this age is permanent so this is a perfect time to start training. Also, this is the ideal time to introduce the puppy to things that will play an important part in his life. Introduce the puppy to different people, places, animals, and sounds in a positive, non-threatening way.
8 to 11 WeeksFear Imprint Period
Avoid frightening the puppy during this period. Any traumatic, frightening or painful experience will have a more lasting effect on the puppy than if it occurred at any other time in its life. Avoid any elective surgery* at this time. (*Note: This is the time period during which ears are usually cropped on a schnauzer. I find that the fear period usually occurs in my dogs around 7-8 weeks, so I generally have ears cropped a bit after this time.)
13 to 16 Weeks Seniority Classification Period or The Age of Cutting
Puppy cuts teeth and apron strings! Puppy begins testing who is going to be pack leader. From 13 weeks on, if puppy attempts to bite, even in play, it is an attempt to dominate. You must discourage any and all biting because such biting is a sign of dominance! (*Note: A quick pinch of the puppy's lip while staring him in the eye and hollaring in his face works well in most puppies.) Pup is attempting to clarify and resolve the question of leadership. (Establishing rules for pup extremely important at this time.) It is important that you are a strong and consistent leader. Formal training must begin. Such training will help you establish your leadership.
4 to 8 Months Play Instinct Period/Flight Instinct Period
Puppy may wander and ignore you. It is very important that you keep the puppy on a leash at this time! The way that you handle the puppy at this time determines if the puppy will come to you when called. At about 4-1/2 months, the puppy loses his milk teeth and gets his adult teeth. That's when puppy begins serious chewing! A dog's teeth don't set in his jaw until between 6 and 10 months. During this time, the puppy has a physical need to exercise his mouth by chewing.
6 to 14 MonthsSecond Fear Imprint Period or Fear of New Situations Period
Dog again shows fear of new situations and even familiar situations. Dog may be reluctant to approach someone or something new. It is important that you are patient and act very matter-of-fact in these situations. Never force the dog to face the situation. DO NOT pet the frightened puppy or talk in soothing tones. The puppy will interpret such responses as praise for being frightened. Training will help improve the dog's confidence. Use treats and positve methods to coach dog at this time. Any training classes begun at this age needs to be fun and non-stressful for the dog. Neuter or spay the dog now.
1 to 4 Years Maturity Period
You may encounter increased aggression and renewed testing for dominance. Continue to train your dog during this period.
There are two varieties of Collie, the rough-coated being by far the more familiar. However, many fanciers have increased their breeding of the smooth-coated variety and many smooths of excellent type are now being exhibited. Although the exact origin of the Collie remains an enigma, both varieties existed long ago in the unwritten history of the herding dogs of Scotland and northern England.
Since sheepherding is one of the world's oldest occupations, the Collie's ancestors date far back in the history of dogs. The smooth Collie, which for as long as there have been written standards for the breed has been bred to the same standard except for coat, was considered principally as a drover's dog used for guiding cows and sheep to market, not for standing over and guarding them at pasture. Until the last two centuries, both varieties were strictly working dogs without written pedigrees. Their untutored masters saw no need for pedigrees, if indeed they were capable of keeping stud books.
From early in the 19th century, when some dog fanciers began to take interest in these dogs, and the keeping of written pedigrees began, the breed progressed rapidly, becoming not only larger in stature but also more refined. The dog "Old Cockie" was born in 1867 and he is credited with not only stamping characteristic type on the rough Collie but he is believed by usually reliable authorities to be responsible for introducing to the breed the factors which led to the development of the sable coat color in the Collie. A short time later Collies were seen of almost every imaginable color, including red, buff, mottle of various shades, and a few sables. At that time the most frequently seen colors were black, tan and white, black and white (without tan), and what are now called blue merles, but which were known then as "tortoise shell."
Collie type was well enough "fixed" by 1886 so that the English breeders have never seen fit to change the height and weight established in their standard at that time. Numerous clarifying changes have taken place in the United States standard over the ensuing years but except for recognizing that the Collie has become slightly larger and heavier on this side of the Atlantic there is no fundamental difference, even today, from that 1886 description of the ideal Collie.
Being no longer in great demand as a herder, today's Collie has transferred these abilities to serving as a devoted family dog where he shows a particular affinity for small children. For many years his general popularity has placed him among the top twenty of the favorite dogs registered by the American Kennel Club. Elegant and beautiful in appearance, loyal and affectionate in all his actions, self-appointed guardian of everything he can see or hear, the Collie represents, to his many admirers, the ideal family companion.
The Collie has been the beneficiary of "good press." Its parent club, The Collie Club of America, Inc. was organized in 1886, two years after the establishment of the American Kennel Club, and was the second parent club to join the AKC. Very active in promoting the interest of the breed, the parent club now has a membership numbering well over 3,500 and its annual specialty show attracts over 400 Collies from all over the United States. Great impetus to the breed's popularity was provided by the famous Collie stories of Albert Payson Terhune. His Lad: A Dog was followed by many more volumes that have been eagerly read by several generations of Americans. More recently, the television exploits of "Lassie" brought to children and their parents a strong desire to have for their very own "a lovely dog like that."
Collie Did You Know?
There are two varieties of Collie: rough and smooth.
The exact origin of the Collie is uncertain, but they have existed for centuries as herding dogs of Scotland and England.
The earliest illustrations of Collies are found in woodcuts in The History of Quadrupeds by Thomas Beswick around 1800.
Blue merle Collies were originally known as "tortoise shell" to describe their color.
Queen Victoria saw her first Collies in the 1860's, and she enthusiastically began to sponsor them, causing a marked surge in the breed's popularity. It was at this point that Collies split from other sheepherding breeds, like Border Collies.
The Collie Club of America, Inc., organized in 1886,